Bro&N by Novikov Group: Italian Pleasures for Every Day
The city’s dining landscape continues to expand under the influence of Arkady Novikov’s restaurant group. The latest arrival is Bro& N, now open in the former Restopark space at Forum Mall — a project with an established name in Russia, and now making its first move into Kazakhstan.
Much like its Moscow locations, the interior presents a contemporary interpretation of the Italian trattoria: warm tonalities, signature blue accents, softened light, natural materials, shelves of ceramics, an open kitchen, and a pizza oven that draws the eye almost immediately. The space is arranged over two levels, with a tightly packed floor and long communal tables that lend the room its easy sociability.
The Almaty kitchen is led by chef Vyacheslav Bakharov, while the broader culinary direction, as ever, remains with brand chef Mirko Dzago — bringing with it his characteristic discipline in matters of product and flavour. At Bro& N, pizza is unmistakably the main event. The dough is left to ferment for 72 hours, then baked in a Morello Forni oven brought over from Italy. Dzago points first to the classics — stracciatella, or gorgonzola with pear — though the menu also makes room for local specials: one with zhaya and mushrooms, another, for instance, with stracciatella and sur-et. Size is left to preference: 25 cm (from 2,900 to 6,500 KZT) or 33 cm (up to 9,900 KZT for the truffle pizza).
A particular emphasis falls on the house-made pasta. Among the dishes most worth seeking out are the tagliatelle with ragù, pipe rigate with prawns and courgette, and the pasta finished in a wheel of cheese — very much there for its moment of theatre. The burger also merits attention: a marbled-beef patty, house pickles, and a potato bun made to Mirko Dzago’s own recipe. And then, of course, the cheeses — burrata, mozzarella, stracciatella and ricotta — all made in-house, and all very much part of the point. To finish, pastries baked fresh each morning, crème brûlée, and tiramisu.
The cocktail list moves easily between the classics and the house’s own signatures — among them the Bron Sour, made with limoncello and egg white. The wine list is clear in its orientation and classical in its structure: Italy, France, a measured selection from the New World, and a handful of local bottles from Kazakhstan. On the non-alcoholic side, there are lemonades built around limoncello, strawberry, and white grape.
Images: restaurant websites and social media; Yandex Maps
