24 Hours in Yerevan

Gallia

In a cozy space at 40 Pushkin Street, three venues from the Collective group share the same roof. In the morning, we’re here for Gallia and their early breakfasts. The recipes hold no surprises — omelets, toast, croissants — but they’re beautifully presented and available from 7:00 a.m. Add to that excellent coffee from AfroLab Roastery (also part of the Collective group): aeropress, pour-over, flat white — everything is spot on.

It’s a venue worth adding to your bookmarks: Gallia’s lunches and dinners promise to be just as engaging, and in the evenings, the stylish Minas bar mixes signature cocktails to go with a lineup of snacks.

Corpous

This is an all-day place, but let’s start with a pleasant breakfast. From 8:30 a.m., Corpous serves a dozen attractive, straightforward dishes: pancakes with caviar and salmon, eggs Benedict, porridge, and omelets. You can pair them with a solid cup of coffee or a glass of sparkling wine — we’re all hedonistic tourists, after all. During the day and into the evening, the kitchen turns out on-trend dishes, from tartare to steaks. The interior is photo-friendly, and the team is welcoming at any time of day.

We had plenty of coffee refills throughout the day, but our favorite was the Costa Rica La Peña filter from AfroLab — those same beans make a perfect souvenir from Yerevan. You can also get a great cup at the cozy J Space — once you’ve perked up, you can stay for lunch, a cocktail, or a DJ set: it’s a multi-format space. At Fein and 202°f, you’ll also find coffee of your dreams, plus pastries or interesting desserts.

Museums are great, of course, but a winery… That’s history, culture, and wine all in one. And it’s only a 40-minute drive from the city center — so let’s hurry and call a taxi.

The story of Van Ardi goes back to 2008. That’s when Varuzhan Muradyan left his accounting job to found one of Armenia’s first organic wineries. Today, his arsenal includes nine wines, picturesque vineyards, and a compact production facility where classical or church music is always playing. Its vibrations are said to have a positive effect on every bottle; guests are even invited to ring a bell and make their own contribution to Armenian winemaking.

The basic program includes a tour and stories about the winery. You can also add on a generous Armenian lunch. Cost: 5,000–19,000 drams. It’s best to book in advance.

In the name of expanding our gastronomic horizons and putting together a solid shortlist, our editor took on a noble task of tasting three portions of tolma at three different restaurants. Choose any one — or all of them.

Abovyan 12

This spot is unpretentious but iconic, with history and an almost homey feel. Here you’ll try exemplary tolma: eight plump, perfectly cooked pieces for 2,600 drams. The whole alphabet of Armenian cuisine — from aveluk soup to grilled trout — is also on hand. Meat is grilled over an open flame all day long and definitely deserves special attention.

Mov

A slightly more polished place, but still free of unnecessary glitz. Толма here has its own section: there’s the classic version, one with kimchi, one with duck, and even a roll-style take. Prices are reasonable across the menu, including for kyufta, grilled meats, and rich soups. The selection of wines by the glass is modest, but why hold back — just go for a bottle.

Opened in 1998, Dolmama is a travel-guide staple that wins guests over with its ambience: a vintage interior, music that sounds like it’s coming from a record player, and creaking floors. Kim Kardashian, Michael Caine, and George Clooney have all dined here. We hope they appreciated the local tolma — the most expensive on our list at 7,000 drams for six pieces. The menu also includes modern dishes like khashlama with vermouth and cream.

Tavern Yerevan

For warming khash and shashlik (with a glass of Ararat, of course), head to Tavern Yerevan. There are several locations across the city, but we vouch for the one at 5 Amiryan Street for its especially vivid atmosphere. People of all ages, locals and tourists alike, feel comfortable here and genuinely have fun. Sometimes there’s dancing and live music.

Urban

A vibrant spot where, on a Friday night, you’ll to be exceptionally charming to get in without a reservation. Urban boasts an impressive selection of wines by the bottle, and there’s always something interesting available by the glass — for instance, the mysterious autochthonous milag from Geghani is highly recommended (in sensible quantities). The menu brings together local and Mediterranean specialties; the mind-blowing focaccia and tartare are definitely worth your attention.

Decant

For a good night and a toast Yerevan, have a glass of Keush, Armenian sparkling wine, at Decant. It’s a key stop on Yerevan’s wine map. In the evenings, it fills up with a creative crowd, and the atmosphere is friendly, with no pomp or glitz. There are always around a dozen wines available by the glass, and a few snacks to go with them. If you ask, the sommeliers will give you a short tasting tour through Armenian wines.

Artashi Mot

For a midnight kebab, shashlik, or hearty soup, head to Artashi Mot. The setting is simple, but what’s on the plate is pure luxury at friendly prices.

Photos: restaurant websites and social media, author’s personal archive, Yandex Maps