Table: A Neighbourhood Bistro by abr and Ruslan Zakirov

The roasted cauliflower with tahini, hazelnuts and lemon purée alone is reason enough to visit. Chilli crisp oil brings gentle heat and a welcome crunch, while the interplay of toasted nuts and bright citrus gives the dish remarkable depth. Even the bread course refuses to be an afterthought. Instead of a conventional roll, guests are served a potato brioche with burnt butter and preserved lemons. The sense of curiosity carries through to dessert, where cauliflower reappears as both mousse and ice cream, paired with rye crumble and caramel. The biggest surprise, however, may be the prices. Starters range from KZT 2,500 to 6,900, mains from KZT 3,800 to 7,500 and desserts from KZT 1,500 to 4,200 — a remarkable proposition for an abr opening in 2026.

The menu feels familiar at first glance, but Zakirov’s touch keeps it from ever becoming predictable. Modern techniques appear throughout, quietly transforming recognisable dishes without overshadowing them. Take the yellowtail sashimi: it’s served with tomatoes that are crushed, then left to ferment for two days before meeting jalapeño and ginger oil and a scattering of toasted nori.

The dining room is deliberately compact, centred around a communal table and an open kitchen. The interiors echo the food: understated, effortlessly relaxed and just the right side of undone, where every detail feels considered without ever appearing overdesigned. One of the nicest touches comes before the food even arrives. Waiting for dinner becomes part of the experience, with coloured crayons and paper tablecloths quietly awakening everyone’s inner child.

One of the menu’s standouts is the beef tartare with fries. The beef is dressed with house-made mayonnaise and pickled mustard seeds, while the fries are dusted with a powder of dried vinegar and deactivated yeast, lending the familiar side an unexpected sharpness. A cream of aged Parmesan ties everything together. Even the salads refuse to play it safe. Seasonal leaves are paired with the restaurant’s own house-made plant-based cheese and finished with a Caesar-inspired dressing.

The wine list follows the same philosophy as the kitchen: thoughtful rather than intimidating, carefully curated without a hint of pretension. France, Italy, Spain, Portugal, Germany, Austria and New Zealand are all represented, alongside pét-nats, crémants, Champagne and orange wines, with most available by the glass for KZT 3,500–5,000. Wine is only part of the picture. The drinks menu also features a concise selection of signature cocktails, kombucha-based bio cocktails layered with fruit, house-made lemonades and smoothies.