Tastescope: Olivier with a Touch of Glamour in Tashkent Restaurants

Benedict has long been a trendy hotspot. People come here to enjoy a cup of good coffee with fresh pastries, share a leisurely brunch with loved ones, or sit down to a proper dinner: the everyday menu pairs Buffalo wings with ossobuco alla Milanese. In December, Benedict is especially lovely: the restaurant’s bright New Year decorations are easy to spot when you’re driving along Nukus Street or walking down Mirabad Avenue. The service is consistently warm and attentive, which only makes you want to come back.

Olivier with beef for UZS 98,000. A delicate classic

Olivier at Benedict is part of the New Year’s menu. We went for the beef version, though they also make one with chicken. The flavor is close to the classic: the ingredients are cut into even cubes, the dressing is mild and free of that «store-bought mayonnaise» flavor, and it’s topped with green onion and a quail egg. The only thing missing was the juiciness and crunch of pickled cucumber. This Olivier is for those who respect the classic done delicately and prefer a familiar, comforting taste.

Kaspiyka evokes the seaside, even though there’s a city outside the windows. Everything here revolves around a maritime theme: white sand on the floor, nets instead of chandeliers, ropes and nautical knots in the decor. The menu offers a wide selection of fish and seafood, which you can not only enjoy at the restaurant, but also buy to take home from the fish counter. It feels like the sea is always close.

Olivier with crayfish tails for UZS 110,000. Maritime luxury

Kaspiyka’s signature Olivier with crayfish tails is on the menu year-round. It’s served in a small bowl, topped with a tiny crayfish and a tuft of spinach. The flavors are harmonious: not quite familiar, but cohesive. The crayfish tails pair well with the base of the salad, adding richness and delicacy. It’s a version inspired by Lucien Olivier’s legendary recipe — one that, to this day, has never been fully revealed.

Novikov Café opened in Tashkent recently, it already feels like part of the city’s rhythm. The atmosphere is unmistakably Novikov, yet here it feels especially grand, as if you’ve arrived at a lavish mansion for a formal dinner. The menu centers on modern Mediterranean cuisine. This is perhaps Novikov’s most refined, sophisticated, and showpiece project in Tashkent.

Olivier with salmon for UZS 210,000. Old money

We weren’t exactly hoping that our favorite Olivier would turn out to be at the most expensive place on the list, but here we are. The salad is molded into a neat cylinder, with a generous portion of ultra-fresh lightly salted salmon arranged alongside. The peas are fresh, not canned, the dressing is light, and right before serving the salad is dusted with coarsely ground black pepper. The ingredients complement each other beautifully, and the salmon brightens the flavor, proving that even a humble Olivier can be served with real finesse.

Lali, an Uzbek restaurant by Arkadiy Novikov and the Family Garden group, gives traditional cuisine an elegant touch. The space plays with the turquoise tones of Shah-i-Zinda, the sandy shades of the Central Asian desert, and the yellow glints of the scorching sun. Traditional Central Asian music fills the room, while dried fruits and flatbreads are laid out on the counter, like on a lavish dastarkhan-style spread. The menu combines time-honored recipes with contemporary twists.

Olivier with trout for UZS 98,000. Homey with a touch of luxury

Here, Olivier is part of the seasonal menu. We went for the trout version, but there’s also an option with beef tongue. The salad is served in the shape of a Bukhara brick, garnished with slices of trout, fresh cucumber, and dill. The portion is on the smaller side, with a satisfying cucumber crunch, and the dressing is fairly thick. It’s worth noting that the serving temperature here is spot on — it never feels like the salad just came straight from the fridge. The ingredients are cut slightly unevenly, which gives the dish a homey feel, but the trout pulls it together and makes it more refined.

Pro. Khinkali is another Novikov Group project. The interior features lamps that resemble papakhas, sofas with Georgian patterns, and plenty of greenery. As soon as you step in, the sounds of Caucasian music surround you: it’s loud, cheerful, and irresistibly appetizing. All of this creates the feeling of a hospitable Georgian home where big gatherings and generously laid tables are a way of life.

Georgian-style Olivier for UZS 82,000. A feast for meat lovers

Olivier is served in a deep bowl: a generous portion of salad, with large slices of beef tongue, dill, and pickled cucumber arranged alongside, all topped with crispy fried onions. The flavor is bold: the tongue is tender, the cucumber juicy, and the peas are fresh rather than canned. The dressing is fairly thick, but just right. All elements work together. This Olivier is about generosity and the feeling of a full meal, not just a quick appetizer.