Plove of my life: Where to find authentic plov

Asking «Who makes the best plov?» is a dangerous game in Uzbekistan. It’s a surefire way to cause chaos, divide families, and maybe even crash the economy. Luckily, there is one thing that locals and travelers can agree on: the best plov is definitely found in Uzbekistan.

The tourist must-visit

Most tourist buses head straight for the legendary branch near Tashkent’s iconic TV tower. It’s impossible to miss, with countless online reviews and shoutouts from well-known food bloggers. But if you’re in the mood for the true «old town plov» vibe — a staple of every local’s childhood — check out the Besh Qozon near the Kukcha Mosque in Tashkent’s old town. 

Try to get there before noon (closer to 11:30) to score the tastiest portion of plov, before the oil settles to the bottom of the kazan. You’ll leave full, not food-coma-full.

After lunch, make sure to take a walk down the winding streets near the mosque. If you’re lucky, you might stumble upon the hidden workshop of the legendary Rahimov family, masters of Uzbek ceramics.

Flavors that are second to none

It may be the second most popular spot in the city, but the taste speaks for itself. At Kamolon Osh, especially on Thursdays during lunch, you’ll find everyone from bankers, collectors, marketers, silk traders, and merchants to khans and cool kids from down the street. There are three branches of Kamolon, but the most popular one — where you’ll want to go for a true teahouse plov (which, by the way, is a rarer find) — is near the city’s «Fire Station, ” right by the bridge. Code word: „Labzak.“

While you’re waiting for your plov to arrive, treat yourself to a classic Uzbek starter, like the spicy soup ilik shurpa. Half a portion will leave you with just enough room for the plov. Another rare treat here is anzur piyoz (marinated onions) with freshly made katlama patir (flaky flatbread). And for the brave, they now serve gurob, a fermented juice made from unripe grapes (think of it as a mix between fruit vinegar and kvass), a natural absorbent that’s perfect for preventing any unpleasant aftereffects from the plov.

Plov from the Pearl of the East — Samarkand

Real Tashkent locals can argue for hours about the best plov, passionately defending the Tashkent version, only to then head out in a large, noisy group to eat… Samarkand plov. This version typically has more carrots and often uses flaxseed oil (known locally as zigir, hence the name «zigir osh» on signs) instead of the usual vegetable or cottonseed oil. Samarkand plov, with its soft sweet notes from the oil and carrots, tastes quite different from the sharper, brown version from Fergana or the rich, well-groomed Tashkent osh.

The most authentic Samarkand plov in Tashkent can be found at SamOsh, behind the Parkent Bazaar. During lunch, it seems like half the office workers in the city gather here, so it’s best to arrive early and by taxi, as the parking lot is often packed.

You can also find delicious Samarkand-style plov near the airport. Just ask to be taken to the Dunyo restaurant on Kushbegi, next to the tram line. You can stop by here or any cafe along the road with a sign that says Zigir osh.

Open kitchen, local gem

This spot is little known outside of Uzbek-speaking circles, but it’s been a hot topic among local bloggers for years. A hidden gem for those who can’t eat sunflower oil, here they offer an option with olive oil, but you’ll need to check if it’s available.

For locals, a seat on the year-round terrace at Abdujalil Osh is better than the VIP section at any fancy restaurant. Here you can watch the masters at work as they create magic in four cauldrons at once. It’s the most authentic open kitchen in Tashkent! It’s rare to see tourists, but you’ll frequently spot Uzbek bloggers, law enforcement, and even pop stars.

You might have heard the rumor that police officers in Tashkent know the best spots for a tasty meal. According to local legend, if a few inspectors show up for lunch at a cafe one day, within a couple of weeks, every table will be filled by people in uniform, and soon patrol officers and higher-ranking officials will follow, making the cafe a hit among locals in search of good food. It’s unclear how the word gets around all these departments, but these people certainly know their food.

Luxury for just $12/place from «Pasha Pasha Cafe Cafe»

Old-school Loft and the legendary Kuranty are projects by Tashkent’s provocative and often-discussed restaurateur, Pavel Georganov, known for his «twist on historical heritage» and wild nightclub parties at the city’s clock tower. Stop by on a Thursday to enjoy a luxury osh experience for 120,000 sums.

The price is absolutely worth it. Offering an adventure for foodies and happiness with every bite, the meal set includes plov, achichuk (shakarob) salad made with delicious local tomatoes from the Alai Bazaar, barrel-pickled veggies, an aromatic spring salad made year-round with kefir and fresh herbs (basically a meatless okroshka), and half a Tashkent obinon (a classic childhood bread). The tomato salad is topped with kurt (dried cream cheese), a small but crucial touch that makes it dance in a whole new way.

Good service generally comes at a cost in Tashkent, and here, it’s consistently excellent. Kuranty is quiet and not crowded during the day, making it a pleasant spot for lunch. The Loft location is close to plenty of attractions, including the oceanarium, the Humo Arena complex, and Magic City Park, Uzbekistan’s own version of Disneyland. 

Wherever you go, just remember to book your plov in advance — it’s usually gone by the end of lunch.

A bonus for your plov adventure

Just type «Bogiravon, 55» into your taxi or navigation app. You’ll find yourself at a simple, ultra-authentic plov joint right in the middle of a residential area, called a mahalla. You’ll spot the restaurant immediately by the huge crowd of cars lining the entire street.

We’ll intrigue you by saying that after this plov, every other plov will taste like flavorless rice. We don’t know what the chefs add to it, but we spent almost 70 minutes there, just to be blown away with delight. If you can, try the suzma (cream cheese, or kurt, that hasn’t been dried yet) with warm flatbread. Then definitely order green tea — yes, the strong kuk choy, not that mix with sugar and lemon that’s mistakenly called «Tashkent tea» outside of Tashkent. True Tashkent locals don’t drink that. And definitely not with plov.

Photos: restaurant websites and social medias, Yandex Maps