Nostalgia FM: 5 Restaurants From Childhood

Ekaterina D.

Editor, wine blogger, member of the Sommelier Association of Kazakhstan

This tiny samsa shop opened in the early 2000s. Its founder prepares different types of samsa, pies, chebureki, and belyashi daily for his regular and new customers, who unerringly find this unmarked spot. The secret of his samsa lies in the proprietary dough recipe that has remained unchanged for two decades. Over the years, many new fillings have appeared alongside the classic beef and lamb: jutsai with mozzarella, pumpkin with spices, cottage cheese and others. A spicy sauce comes free with meat samsa. Among drinks, the homemade kompot became a particularly favorite.

When the café first opened, my grandfather and I would always stop by in the evening on our way back from the dacha. Now I rarely get to visit because I’m often busy, but whenever I pass by, I make sure to drop in — not just to eat but to chat with the owner and revisit pleasant memories.

Address: S. Seifullin St., 29

Dias Mukatov

Developing the family flower business

Koryo is all about childhood. I often had lunch there with my uncle and father, but didn’t understand what I was eating: I was a little kid then. I only remember honey mushrooms with bread and Korean-style carrots.

About a year ago, I returned to Koryo with my father for lunch. That’s when I realized this place is famous not for salads but for its kuksi, served cold or hot. They also serve manti, salads, and soda, that’s all. Time here seems to have stopped in the 1990s: the interior, atmosphere, music, and service. Yet Koryo has no shortage of fans; it’s still tasty, quick and budget friendly. Some consider it overrated, but for me it’s a piece of childhood.

Address: M. Auezov St., 17

Daniar Yeskendirov

SMS marketer, targetologist

I was born in Tselinograd and was lucky enough to experience the city’s most legendary pizzeria — Venezia in Sine Tempore (former TSUM). Oh, what delicious pizza they had! A thin crust, crispy edges, and slightly sweet tomato sauce. Also they always offered tabasco and chili butter for extra kick. Our whole family often went there, and our favorites were Napoli, Four Seasons, and seafood pizzas.

The mall closed long ago, and so did the pizzeria. But its chefs preserved the recipes and now bake the same pizza at Lugano restaurant. Notably, they didn’t move far from the old location: the restaurant is just 700 meters from the former TSUM.

Elina Petrova

Book blogger, creator of «Kazakhstan Pages» book club

This is a confectionery whose cakes and pastries are known and remembered by all local millennials. Sladkaya Skazka opened in 1996 at todays’ corner of Seifullin Street and Zhenis Avenue. That’s where a family of Iranian immigrants began baking and selling their first desserts.

The location that stayed with me forever is their confectionery on Respublika. They still serve the most delicious oatmeal cakes. Each bite takes you back to your youth: soft, slightly crumbly, with generous amounts of delicious cream. Their signature item — «Lady Fingers» cake. Few buy it now, but for my family it’s more beautiful than trendy «milk girls» and «red velvets» cakes. Real magic — airy choux pastry tubes filled with vanilla cream. I sometimes stop by Sladkaya Skazka for pastries, just to taste those times again.

Asemgul Rysmagambetova

Entrepreneur, developing furniture production

I’m just two years older than our capital and vaguely remember restaurants from that time. Back then, only relatively well-off families could afford to eat out. But there’s one place my father and I visited without fail every month — Zodiak Billiard Club. There I first held a cue and learned the rules of pool. It was the first and only restaurant with pool tables. Dad usually ordered shashlik and a mug of beer, while I got kompot or fruit drink.

Now the billiard club operates exactly as it did 30 years ago. Pool lovers still gather there for a game, drink a mug or two of beer, and eat shashlik. So for me, «Zodiak» is a relic of public catering.