Nature retreat: 8 restaurants for a city escape

Almaty has plenty of mountain trails, but what about waterfronts? The Terrenkur trail offers a refreshing riverside walk along a mountain stream. You’ll encounter joggers, adorable dogs, and lovestruck couples—life here seems to both bubble and slow. As you walk, keep an eye out for a small house with a sign that says «march march». You’ll want to make a pit stop here for coffee or tea, healthy snacks or pastries, and a selfie by the mirrored wall. Each season brings its own vibe: cozy up by the fireplace in the winter or snag a riverside seat during summer months.

A semi-secret route from Al-Farabi Avenue up the Esentai River can feel surreal. On clear days, the mountain landscape looks cinematic, with sharp reliefs and towering peaks seemingly within reach. Hidden along this path, you’ll find Ozen, the only cafe in the area. It’s a popular spot for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, with a menu that ranges from morning zucchini pancakes with salmon to hearty pastas. For a quick option, grab a batch brew or blue matcha to go and continue your walk. Just be prepared to snap photos at every step.

«A table with a view of the horses, please!» The Haragun country club transports you to a rural paradise. Visit the stables, attend a painting master class, explore the art gallery, or in summer, enjoy an open-air cinema on the lawn. End your day with dinner right by the mini racetrack. The extensive menu features farm-raised lamb dishes, seafood, Italian cuisine, Japanese wagyu, American steaks, and an intriguing wine list with Kazakh selections, champagnes, grand cru Europe, and everyday New World options. All while sitting back and watching rhythmic horses at work. The only thing missing is a cowboy hat or boots.

After perusing international guides like Condé Nast Traveller and Lonely Planet, which have spotlighted Kazakhstan as a top tourist destination, many avid travellers dream of enjoying a meal at Auyl. Luckily, Almaty residents can visit anytime they want. Located in the Medeu tract, the restaurant interior features natural materials and tones, fresh air (a local luxury), and a mesmerizing view. A trip to Auyl nourishes in every sense. The cuisine is a modern take on national dishes, rooted in nomadic techniques and traditions, so no need to fear heavy food. Try the achichuk salad with dried horse meat and smoked paprika or the signature horsemeat tartare with chili. Finish with the special taiga tea on the terrace swings. Your one-day getaway near Almaty is set!

Our starting point is the «Ayusai» visitor center, part of the Ile-Alatau National Park. Here, you can learn all about ideas of non-interference with nature and explore nearby trails solo or with a group. From there, we’ll head slightly off-path to a small stone house above the main buildings. This mountain café, Shopan, by the Sandyq Group, boasts a traditional Kazakh-style interior and a concise eastern menu. Shopan’s tour de force is their Festive Plov, but you’ll want to start the meal with a tandoor samsa and end with tea and sweets. The cozy warmth inside paired with majestic mountain views creates a perfect relaxed atmosphere.

Here’s a ready-made mini-hike and mountain breakfast plan. Wake up early and hop into a taxi (skip the ascent for now); your destination is Apa Katya café, open from 7:00 AM. The menu includes porridge, syrniki, egg dishes, and sandwiches. Grab a folding chair, find a quiet spot, and meditate on the mountains away from other guests. Descend to Medeu on foot, visiting the gorge, waterfall, and Gorelnik hot springs. Finish by testing your endurance on the popular «health stairs"—842 steps with regular rest areas.

«Farm to Table» is a popular restaurant concept, based around dishes made from local products, grown on-site or sourced directly from farmers. Talgar Trout Farm takes this concept to a whole new level. Here, you catch the fish yourself, which is then prepared for your lunch or dinner. Choose between trout or sturgeon, with fishing rods and bait provided. This is your chance to turn a meal into a full-fledged adventure.

Almaty’s magic lies in its location. Nowhere else can you finish a work meeting and be at Central Asia’s highest-altitude restaurant within an hour. Syn32 at Shymbulak Resort, located 3,200 meters above sea level, exudes an après-ski atmosphere. Here, you’ll see some guests returning from the slopes, chilling to DJ sets and recharging with signature kazak-tori (mini yakitori skewers with a local twist), and others who have just hopped off the cable car, and are heading for coffee and an English breakfast. If skiing or snowboarding isn’t your thing, combine lunch at Syn32 with a hike to the Bogdanovich Glacier—a massive marble-ice wall at 3,500 meters (don’t forget proper gear, essential even for relatively easy climbs). On the way back, consider staying overnight at one of the world’s highest hotels, Tenir.

Photo: restaurant websites and social networks; Yandex Maps